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Madurai is one of the oldest cities of India.
Pre Christian Sangam literature originated in Madurai. The Sangam period
poet Nakkeerar is associated withsome of the Tiruvilayaadal episodes of
Sundareswarar - that are enacted as a part of temple festival traditions
even today.Nakkeerar’s Tirumurugaatruppadai sings of the glory of
Tirupparamkunram nearby.
The
hymns of the Nayanmaars (Saivite Saint Poets) of the 7th century CE
and beyond are full of praises of Aalavai (Madurai). The well known
Tevaram verse ‘Mantiramaavadu Neeru’ is dedicated to Sundareswarar –
or Chokkar.
The Sundareswarar shrine is
believed to be more ancient than the shrine to Meenakshi.
The original temple was razed to
the ground by the invading armies of Malik Kafur, the general of Allauddin
Khilji of the Khilji dynasty of Delhi, in early 14th century. All of the
temple, along with the surrounding streets were completely brought down,
with the exception of the twin shrines of Meenakshi and Sundareswara. It
is believed that the shrines were spared, thanks to infighting between the
invaders.
With
amazing resilience the temple came back to shape. Viswanatha Nayak of the
Nayak dynasty – successors to the Vijayanagar Empire, commenced the task
of reconstruction in 1510 CE, sticking meticulously to the original plan
of the temple. It is believed to have taken over a hundred years to
complete the temple. The temple itself is a celebration of art; it is
believed that over 30 million pieces of sculpture and stucco images adorn
the 14 acre temple complex.
The 1000 feet by 950 feet
Vandiyur Maariyamman Teppakkulam was built in mid 17th century by
Tirumalai Nayakar, for the purpose of celebrating Meenakshi Teppotsavam.
(This festival is celebrated today in the Tamil month of Thai).
It is believed that in recent
times (of the later Nayak royalty of Madurai), the annual festival of the
temple was moved from the tamil month of Maasi to the month of Chittirai.
(The festival streets surrounding the temple are named after the month
Maasi and not Chittirai when the festival happens).
This change in tradition
apparently was carried out with socio-political motives; i.e. to time the
festival to synchronize with the annual festival at the Kallazhagar Temple
revered by the Kallar tribe living outside of Madurai. Even today,
Kallazhagar is brought in procession to the outskirts of Madurai, a day or
two after the Royal/Divine Wedding.
The
popular belief associated with this trip is that Kallazhagar (Maha Vishnu)
the brother of Meenakshi proceeds to Madurai to give his sister in
marriage to Sundareswarar – and returns disappointed that he is late and
that he has missed the ceremony. During the annual festival season in
Madurai, the entire region spanning the city and the outskirts transforms
into a sea of celebration of life.
Scholars
from abroad have spoken thus, of Madurai, ‘It is in Madurai that one
discovers the heart and soul of the Indian faith, thought systems and
culture – dating back over several centuries. The mysticism that
surrounds India takes on a real meaning in Madurai’.
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