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Ranganathaswamy temple at
Srirangam, 6km north of Trichy,
is among the most revered shrines to
Vishnu in south India, and also one of the largest and liveliest,
engulfing within its outer walls homes, shops and markets. Enclosed by
seven rectangular walled courtyards and covering more than sixty hectares,
it stands on an island defined by a tributary of the River Kaveri. This
location symbolizes the transcendence of Vishnu, housed in the sanctuary
reclining on the coils of the snake Adisesha, who in legend formed an
island for the god, resting on the primordial Ocean of Chaos.
The temple is approached
from the south. A gateway topped with an immense and heavily carved gopura,
plastered and painted in bright pinks, blues and yellows, and completed as
recently as 1987, leads to the outermost courtyard, the latest of seven
built between the fifth and seventeenth centuries. Most of the present
structure dates from the late fourteenth century, when the temple was
renovated and enlarged after a disastrous sacking by the Delhi armies in
1313. The outer three courtyards, or prakaras, form the hub of the temple
community, housing ascetics, priests, and musicians, and the streets are
lined with food stalls and shops selling souvenirs, ritual offerings and
plump fresh flower garlands to be presented to Vishnu in the inner
sanctuary.
The pillars of the
outstanding Sheshagiriraya Mandapa, south of the kalyan mandapa, are
decorated with rearing steeds and hunters armed with spears. These are
splendid examples of Vijayanagar style, which depicts chivalry defending
their temple against Muslim invaders, and represents the triumph of good
over evil. The central tower, crowning the holy sanctuary, is coated
in gold and carved with images of Vishnu's avatars, or incarnations, on
each of its four sides.
Inside the gate to the
third courtyard - the final section of the temple is another pillared
hall, the Garuda Mandapa, carved throughout in typical Nayak style. Chola
structures and more recent shrines added by Vijayanagar and Nayak donors
fill the second courtyard, while the dimly lit innermost courtyard, the
most sacred part of the temple, shelters the image of Vishnu in his aspect
of Ranganatha, reclining on the serpent Adisesha. Most of the
temple's daily festivals take place in the courtyard, beginning each
morning with vina-playing and hymn-singing as Vishnu is awakened in the
presence of a cow and an elephant, and ending just after 9pm with similar
ceremonies. |